The Camera Phone...master it! Part 1

As a photographer, I'm delighted to see that everywhere I go, and I mean everywhere, I see people using their mobile phones as a camera. To photograph everything.

Mainly because photography, thanks to the advances in camera sensors, mobile devices, and social media apps, has been integrated into our everyday lives. Photography is now a way to do everything from note taking to price inquiring (think about it).  So it only makes sense that all of us learn how to use camera phones to their maximum capability.

It's about control:
For those who've read past posts, you most undoubtedly know that I'm a big advocate of using a camera in M (manual) mode because it gives you full control of the technical aspects of your photograph. The more control you have as a photographer, to not only incorporate your style, technique, and photographic knowledge into the image, but to also control the composition of the elements within the frame, the more likely you are to have a great final product.

Here is a list of some of the main aspects (in no particular order )you can control in a D-SLR. Yes, some of these are obvious but must be listed.

• Shutter Speed
• ISO
• Aperture
• White Balance
• Tones
• Frame and Composition
• Lens Selection

In general, the reason a D-SLR is so advantageous in photographic terms is because you have full control. This can't really be sad for a camera phone. I realize the quality of the image coming from a D-SLR versus that of a camera phone is not comparing apples to apples, but there are things you can do that can leave you quite surprised with the capabilities of camera phones.

So look at the list above and ask yourself which aspects you can control in a camera phone. Those aspects you can control, theoretically, if you perfect them, will make you one awesome camera phone user.

Now looking at the list, you can see that for the most part, if you've used a camera phone recently, you will have noticed that most camera phones are made for ease of use and quick spur of the moment photography. This means most camera phones default to Automatic settings. Something I'm not fond of in D-SLRs.

But these are phones remember? So I don't have a problem with Auto setting in a phone. So look at the list once again and examine which element you can control. That element; Composition. 

Yes, regardless of what setting the camera is choosing, you, the photographer, have full control of the composition. This brings me to the biggest tip for becoming a Camera Phone Warrior.

Perfect the art of composition.
To become a really good camera phone photographer you have to understand the art of composition. Composition is the biggest element of photography you can directly control using your camera phone. Just like using a DSLR, using a camera phone falls under the basic composition guidelines of photography.

The number one tip in composition is also the most basic one.

Use the Rule of Thirds:
The Rule of Thirds is simple. It advocates that the subject or any major part of the image should NOT be placed in the center of the photograph. Instead, it should be placed in one of the areas dividing the photograph into thirds. Using your camera phone you are able to place your main subject in areas other than the middle. This alone will make you so much better literally overnight. 

The red dots are the ideal locations for subject placement.

There are challenges with the rule of thirds and a camera phone. That challenge is mostly presented in the form of the focus point. Normally a camera phone will select what it thinks is the best focus point. I find that most camera phone tend to want to focus on the objects in the middle. This is obviously a problem if you don't want to place your subject in the center of the frame. The simple solution is to learn how to focus selectively with your phone.

Below are a couple examples of camera phone images I took recently where I applied the Rule of Thirds to ultimately make an image more appealing. Both images where taken using Instagram and a Droid Razer HD.

The focus challenge:
On my phone (Droid Razer HD) I can actually touch the location I want to focus on. I'm not sure if the Iphone allows this but I can't imagine it not being able to. It takes practice to get it just right, but just like everything in photography, you have to practice. My tip here is to figure out how to focus and recompose an image while the focus is locked. On Droids, I know you can focus on the subject in the middle and lock the focus on that middle spot while you recompose. Again, there are so many phones all will have something a little different about them, so just play with it until you figure out how to focus it.

I will continue with my next part of mastering your Camera phone in the future...there's lots to cover on this little camera topic (no pun intended). -cg

Picking the Right Camera: Part 2..Make a list

In my first post about picking the right camera I focused primarily on Megapixels. Yes, Megapixels are important, but to the regular observer, there really isn't much difference between megapixels at 18, 11, or 21 unless you are printing large scale images. Ultimately, it shouldn't be a deciding factor for picking a camera.

Make a List:
As a photographer, you will learn to stack rank what is most important to you based on what you will primarily be photographing. So my second tip for picking a camera is to stack rank what is most important to you. Below is what my ranking looks like. I then take this ranking and find the camera that best meets those needs (Of course, if budget is an issue, it has to be considered).

#1
Noise
For me, noise and low light ability are probably on the top on my list. As a wedding photographer, I have this very high on the list because I'm shooting in challenging lighting situations constantly. That's why I use a full frame sensor such as the one found on the Canon 5D Mark iii.

Basically, when it comes to noise, the larger the sensor, the better the camera will perform under low light. This is why a point and shoot 18 megapixel camera will look very inferior to a DSLR, and especially a full frame DSLR camera. The sensors are so much larger in DSLRs and the result is that noise levels are considerably lower.

The same holds true if you buy a DSLR APS-C sized camera (although I have a couple Canon 7D's and have found them to perform very very well under low light). Still, there are major improvements being made in non-full frame cameras when it comes to noise.

Noise is a major factor for me when I pick a camera. If you shoot in low light or tend to have a lot of black tones in your photography, noise is a major factor. 

#2
Focus
This is a big one for me. As a wedding photographer and portrait photographer, focus ability is very high on the list. Part of creating professional portraits is the ability to create a focus point on the specific part of the image that you as an artist dictate.

If the focus is slow, or if the focus is not in the spot chosen it can break an otherwise good image. So a camera's focus performance is very important to me. Especially when it means capturing a moment a wedding that you may have otherwise missed if your camera didn't focus fast enough. This is one of the areas where a so called "professional" camera exceeds the performance of the entry level DSLRs.

Now both advanced and entry level DSLR's are capable of taking gallery worthy images of a subject, but the advanced DSLR can give the photographer more control' which is exactly what I want. I like to maintain full control of my camera.

Just for comparison  my Canon 5D Mark iii has 61 pin point focus points that I can pick manually. The Canon 7D, not an entry camera by any means, has 19. So when it comes to focus, the 5D Mark iii outshines the 7D even though both cameras are capable of creating images that are otherwise indistinguishable to the naked eye.

#3
Dynamic Range

Dynamic range in this image insures all the details in the brightest and darkest areas of the photo are visible. A good exposure. 

Dynamic range is very important to me because of my type of style of photography. I do not ever shoot HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography because I don't think it's very natural. I don't like it. I've been accused many times of shooting HDR, because of the appearance of many of my photos. But I can attest  not a single image in my gallery is HDR. This is because I place a very big emphasis on a camera's natural dynamic range and an even greater emphasis on my ability to create a true exposure that includes a balance of the darkest and lightest points in a frame.

To do this, I have to have a camera that can expose the darkest and lightest parts of an image closest to the exposure setting I've created. If you read websites like DPreview.com they break down nearly every camera according to dynamic range. This is a serious element for me.

It's a performance issue ultimately. Whether I'm shooting portraits, nature, or weddings, the dynamic range of a particular camera can be one of the things that a professional photographer can actually see when comparing two cameras.

#4
FPS (Frames per second) and General Performance/Build.

Frames per second were never really a big issue for me. I'm not one to shoot hundreds of shots to get that perfect one. If I were a sports photographer, this would be the highest thing on the list, but for everything else, I find my needs are suited with what I have.

There are some performance and build elements that I do take into consideration. As I've mentioned before, I travel a lot and spend time in the field often. I need a camera that can take a beating. I've shot in the rain, the snow, and in the sand, so I need a camera that can literally take a beating. This is why I go with weather sealed and titanium alloy bodies. Of course, these cameras are much more expensive but for me it's worth it. Most of the entry level cameras on the market today are made of plastic. Durable, but not as stable as the titanium alloy cameras like the 5D and 7D. If I were just starting photography, I don't believe I would start out with either of those cameras though. The imaging abilities of the entry level cameras are unnoticeable to most people's eyes, so a lower priced entry camera would suit me better if I were starting photography today.

Other performance elements I particularly look for when picking a camera have more to do with advanced photography functions and custom functions. Things like memory and style settings, a locking functions dial (which the 7D lacks and drives me nutts), and LCD screen size are all things I consider.


So I basically say this:

Make your list, read reviews, test out a camera and just start shooting. Budget of course is always important. If you have $1500 to purchase a camera, I always say buy a camera in the $700-$1000 range and with the remaining money, get a lens that can perform and be of better quality than the general lenses. Glass is a whole other discuss I will save for a future blog post, but it's vital. A camera is only as good as the glass you put on it...remember. -cg

Back to El Matador...finding the moment.

So how do you find that perfect moment? Is it the sunset, the colors, or the perfect composition of nature that makes a perfect moment? I really don't think it's anything that can be quantified. As an artist the perfect moment is just something that happens when you apply the concepts of photography. Composition, exposure, and execution will always lead to a perfect moment in my opinion. They are tools for the means.

This is what I say. Just set a goal. One thing I always remember to do when I go out with my camera in hand is make it a point to capture something I can remember. Something memorable. I find that when I set a goal to get at least one quality image where ever I am, I find it easier to get it. Something I've learned to do when I go out with my camera is to make it a mission every time.

I've been out on locations only to have light and wind and colors not work in my favor. But I've learned to use these conditions to make me more creative. This is how I learned how to use long exposures to be creative for example.

So this evening, I continued my pursuit of getting that perfect El Matador Beach photo. Like I said recently, this is a beach that is hard to photograph because it's been photographed so many times before. This evening alone I counted at least five other photographers looking for that perfect shot. But remember...I made it a goal to get something I can remember.

But what makes a memorable shot? Really, a place like that has no such thing. This is something I realized tonight. Just follow what I've learned and everything else will always fall in place right?

I noticed that each and every photographer I observed tonight was using a different camera, technique and location. I did notice that I was the only photographer that stayed once the sun actually set. I also noticed that no other photographers actually moved very much. This always baffles me. Moving locations and taking photographs in the 20 minutes after the sun is gone usually yields the most artistic photographs....but maybe that's just me.

Regardless, I'm not sure I got the perfect shot tonight, but I always have fun in the process and I believe that applying the things I've learned, including moving around and shooting after the sun is gone, led to a memorable shot. Remember, my goal was not a perfect shot...but a shot I could remember...-cg



Here's what came out.

Picking the Right Camera..

This is the first part of a series of blog entries that will cover topics that I hope will help you decide what camera is right for you.

I've always believed that regardless of what camera is in my hands, I'm capable of taking a photograph that is worthy of any gallery. Maybe it's confidence or maybe it's experience, but whatever it is, I truly think that excellent photography is not so much the result of the equipment as it is the artist. So with that concept in mind, I think it's important to discuss a few key points that will help you decide which camera is right for you.

The one simple rule I always say when shopping for a camera; As long as your camera has M (manual) mode, you will be able to take amazing photographs regardless of how much it costs.

This is why I believe there is no such thing as a "professional" camera. Yes, there are "professional" features in cameras for the advanced photographer, but simply buying a "professional camera" never adds up to becoming a great photographer over night.

Quite honestly, many of my favorite photographs taken throughout the years were not taken with a "professional camera". Now I currently shoot with the Canon 5D Mark iii, a camera regarded as one of those "professional" cameras, but honestly, I know a Canon Rebel series can produce just as good an image.

Below are some images I've taken through the year with various levels of cameras. The concert photo is my favorite concert image. It was actually taken with a point and shoot Canon PowerShot S70.

I always display this image as a favorite. It was actually taken with a Canon 20D.

This was actually taken with a Canon Point and Shoot Powershot S70. I set it to manual mode in order to take this image. You have to be able to shoot Manual mode to get the most out of your camera. 

This is a recent image taken with a Canon 7D. 

The difference for me are the advanced features and the weather sealed body of the more expensive cameras. Shooting countless weddings and various photo shoots can take a toll on camera, so the durablity factor is important.

But before I go into the actual key elements of what camera is best for you, I'd like to remind you of another important factor that should be on your mind when deciding the right DSLR; Lenses. The selection of glass you put on the camera goes hand in hand with the quality (more on that later).

Digital SLR cameras these days, regardless of price, are amazing pieces of technology. The sensors in all cameras are so advanced that the lenses you decide to put on the cameras are just as important as the camera itself. Because these sensors capture such detail, the glass factor is important.

With that said, let's examine the first of 3 key elements of what makes a wise Digital Camera purchase....

It's not about Megapixels...

In the early days of Digital Photography, camera companies were in a battle of megapixels. What are megapixels? Basically, it's the number that tells you how many pixels the camera uses to produce an image. Most photographers, amatuer and professionals, where caught up in this battle. I for one, experienced first hand the early digital battle.

Working for a large studio, in 2003 I was able to use the Kodak 14N digital camera. The studio bought the camera based on the unprededented 14 megapixels capablity, which was over two times the standard DSLR capabilities of either Canon or Nikon at the time (the camera itself was built on a Nikon N90 body).

What the studio didn't realize is that the camera was all Megapixels and that's about it. You couldn't shoot sports or action with it because of limited capabilities and extreme noise outside. Lighting had to be precise or the noise levels were too high. At a price of $5000  per camera (the studio purchased over 20), this was an expensive lesson learned.

My advice at the time was to purchase the Canon 10D. A six megapixel camera with more verstile capabilites and a fraction of the price. Afterall, I had one of my own and was pleased. Yes, it was a 6 Megapixel camera (still very high for the times) but I knew the megapixel capabilites were just a small element of the overall picture (no pun intended).

The images below I took in 2004. One was with the 14 Megapixel Kodak 14N and one was with the 6 Megapixel Canon 10D. Can you guess which one was taken with which?

Add caption

The interesting thing about each photo is that only one of those cameras could actually take the photo of the my cat observing the candle. And it wasn't the 14 Megapixel camera.

Lesson: Never ever look for a camera based on megapixels alone.

Now, I know the examples above don't necessarily apply to today's cameras because all cameras now have made grand improvements in noise and high ISO capabilities but I use it as a lesson I learned first hand. The concept still holds true in most regards. I firmly believe it's not about Megapixels.

A higher megapixel count of zoom range does not make a camera better. Resolution is a term that is interchangeable with megapixels. In today's world, just about every camera, and all DSLR's, have more than enough for any need (unless you need a photo for a billboard). This is why it's not important. There's very little difference between 18 megapixels and 21 Megapixels, except price.

So when you are considering buying a camera, resist the temptation from a sales person trying to sell you the camera with the most megapixels. I advise, save the money and invest in better lenses.

Before I purchase any equipment I always read reviews and image comparisons online. Websites like www.dpreview.com are vital in my decision making process. The site helps break down every single camera on the market into various categories that are important to me. Things like noise, frames per second, custom functions, or focus points are other elements of a camera that are vital in the decision making process. As you become a photographer you will learn to place many of those elements in the order of your preference. For example, if you primarily plan to photograph your son or daughter in sports, then perhaps the determining factor could be Frames Per Second (FPS). If low light photograph is your interest, than a camera with the biggest sensor will perform best.

There are some differences when it comes to sensor size. Normally, entry level DSLR's will use smaller sensors than those used in higher priced cameras. In my next entry, I will continue my discussion on making a smart purchase.

For now, I will leave you with a list of entry level cameras (DSLRs) I would recommend. Each camera listed below can create images worthy of any gallery. Please remember, I'm a Canon guy (as I explained in the past). I will list the next segment in my next entry...-cg

Entry-Level
$500-$1000
    
Canon EOS Rebel 4Ti

Canon EOS 600D